[Seoul] Architecture guides – Seoul, South Korea

Hi people,

My family and I just got back from the winter vacations and I’ve done nothing than traveling the whole time. After 5 trains, 3 buses and 4 flights trips we managed to stay in Naples, reach Ferrara and finally get to Seoul.

More than just writing about all the marvelous things I have seen, with this post I’m starting a new type of posts that I believe will be really useful for all those who are into architecture and love traveling. I’ve started already a similar thing with Genoa in the short post about Museo del Tesoro di San Lorenzo of Franco Albini and Franca Helg (check the post here). I’m now going for a fuller description of all the places I have visited and the place where I have been eating/drinking/enjoying life 🎉.

One thing that I believe is really important is the ultimate map we complete after each trip (we make several versions before and sometimes during the vacation). And you can find it right here ⬇️

So, what’s on the map?

First thing I have enjoyed visiting was the ancient palaces of Seoul. The city has at least three spots to visit and admire the old royal palaces. In particular, we visited Gyeongbokgung palace (the biggest in the city) and the Deoksugung palaces complex (this is the only one you can also visit at night).

Here Gyeongbokgung palace. Korean and foreign tourists are used to rent per hour typical clothes and to wear them when visiting local monuments

Gyeongbokgung palace during the visit

Deoksugung palace complex. This part was particularly interesting because the palaces hosted two contemporary installations

A detail of the pagoda roof. On beams heads, the flower represented is a lotus

Deoksugung complex is quite unique. From the very last building, we could catch an awesome view of both contemporary and ancient architecture. At the left of the pagoda, you can see the City Hall building

Still Deoksugung complex

Furthermore, City Hall metro stop area is full of interesting spots: the futuristic Seoul City hall building by Korean iArc Architects and the beautiful market of Nandaemun. Here we could taste local street food (we eat into a small inner market street where a crowd of tourists and Koreans is captivated by shouting and funny Korean ladies); colorful gadgets and basically anything you need to survive (there’s a street for cameras, a street for glasses, a street for baby wear and so on). Close to the market the Sungnyemun Gate where we could see the local changing of the guard.

Nandaemun market with super colorful accessories

Some local street food. Unlike it is believed, Korean food is really tasty and has a lot of variety. Plus, we had no health issues, even when eating street food.

Super tasty fried sweets. Some of them have red bean sauce ❤

Nandaemun market inner street. This is quite particular. We were a bit scared at the beginning but then it was funny seeing all the ladies trying to reach our attention and having the feeling of being into a real lively market

So after a few days, we got back in this little street and we eat some Bibimbap and some super nice noodle soup for a really low price. Well, spaces are not really wide 🙂

Our super bowl of Bibimbap

Seoul also offers a great variety of contemporary architecture. Among all the new Dongdaemun Desing Plaza designed by Zaha Hadid Architects in 2007 and completed in November 2011. Beyond personal tastes in terms of architecture design, I have appreciated the dimensions of the buildings in terms of height and the possibility of having a public walking roof. We had a special view of the building and its surroundings (you can also see the old gate of Dongdaemun) by climbing on the nearby old walls. If it a nice day, don’t miss the chance to visit the Cheonggyecheon river and the local market.

Dongdaemun walls

Dongdaemun walls and the funny man we met. He looked so happy with his kite

And this is the view from the walls. On the center the Dongdaemun gate and on the right the Dongdaemun Design District with the central building designed by Zaha Hadid Architects

A detail of the Dongdaemun building. I think I’ll make another post about this

In terms of local museums, I found interesting the National Museum of Korea, where we could get the complete path of the local history. In a sunny day Koreans usually have a nice picnic in the large park around the building or have a walk on the large terrace that gives you a great view of the city. From there you can also see the Amorepacific headquarters designed by David Chipperfield Architects (easily reached by bus).

The enormous National Korean Museum. On the right, the entrance and in the center the big terrace facing the city

Some exquisite local potteries called celadon (from french)

Koreans have a long tradition of paper paintings

The National Museum of Korea in a huge building with several floors. Its heights are really impressive and these stairs are basically in the void. If you are suffering vertigo this can be a nightmare

Amorepacific headquarters by David Chipperfield Architects completed in 2017 (in the map you also have the link to the Chipperfield website with the full description of the design)

Another great place to admire ancient Korean art is the LeeumMuseum by three great contemporary architects: Jean Nouvel, Mario Botta and OMA. The complex, wanted by one of the chief of Samsung (the company is actually Korean), in an interesting mix of three different styles; each of them with a strong and unique feature: a black box for OMA, a central and hypnotic hall for Botta and messy exposition boxes and rolling walls for Nouvel.

The Leeum museum from the terrace. On the left, the OMA building, on the complete right the Nouvel construction. In the middle, really visible in its brick finishing, the Botta museum

The hall designed by Botta from the bottom, where the entrance is placed

The same geometry is seen from the top. Around this void, the stairs distribute the museum rooms

And here magic happens. At the end of the Botta building, there is this big installation from Olafur Eliasson

There is a lot of traditional houses as well. These are called “hanok” and there is still some neighborhoods that we managed to visit and that are interesting enough because there is actually people still living inside and they are not only for touristic visits. We actually walked through the whole neighborhood of Bukchon and we also slept two nights into this typical house. If you like to sleep on the floor and you also like warm floors this is an option for you!

The “hanok” where we slept for a few nights

Our room with the colorful futon

Guys, South Korea is a place full of experiences. I was really glad I could visit such a beautiful city. I’m leaving you with an image of the North Korea (we could visit the border by going to the DMZ) and one of Marco and me.

North Korea and its small (fake?) cities

 

 

Marco and me ❤

 

Guys, if you are looking for other travel stories, have a look at the guides here. 

I have also been to India, you can see my adventure in Auroville by clicking here. You will find more about the city with a giant golden sphere in the center.